It’s siesta on a Sunday in Alcalá de Henares, Spain. Every shop is shuttered and the streets are empty and silent save for the brush of leaves stirred by the wind. The late October sun is bright and warm, generously allowing dresses. By Plaza de Cervantes, the heart of the city, locals gather at cafes … Continue reading
I leave Madrid in a few hours, and it feels strange. All of my bags are packed (though “stuffed” might be a more apt word). I’m excited to go home, but it’s hard for me to be done with a place. I want to collect all the places I’ve lived and have them on hand. … Continue reading
I didn’t realize this time would come so soon. My love affair has soured, yet I’m in the awkward position of continuing like nothing has changed. I am finally admitting to myself that I would be perfectly happy to never eat ham again. Spaniards adore jamón; it’s an important part of their diet and lifestyle. It almost seems … Continue reading
I’ve tackled El Rastro. Europe’s largest flea market presented an exciting challenge to a collector (read: hoarder) like myself. Flea markets often feel like the true introduction to a new city; there’s something about a market that’s revealing of the place in which it thrives. I adore markets. In Honduras, colorful, handmade bags and pottery … Continue reading
When I stepped off the bus into the bustling neighborhood of Sol I immediately shut my eyes. Sunshine, piercingly bright and hot, coated everything. I had heard about Madrid’s intense light, a product of the city’s high altitude, but it still caught me off guard. Madrileños (Madrid locals) have a saying: “De Madrid al cielo,” … Continue reading
Travel Ardor 